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Rums of the Eastern Caribbean
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You can't be in Grenada long before the "Spice Island" earns its name. Most of the worlds nutmeg is grown here, and nutmeg is the focal point of the national flag. But this is only one of the spices on the "Isle of Spice"
If it is grown in the Eastern Caribbean, it probably grows better in Grenada than anywhere else as a result of the rich, volcanic soil and diverse climate. The problems of relying on one or two crops haven't plagued this small island nation. Family farms patchwork the hillsides, and sugar cane is visible as you travel the island. A broad agricultural base and a lack of consumption tax on alcohol have also contributed to the survival of several estates where the history of rum making over the last two hundred years is documented in motion.
Production techniques vary, from pot stills capable of producing only a few gallons to a modern two-column still that yeilds several thousand gallons a day. Spirits are made from sugar cane juice, cane syrup, or molasses. Rum is also imported from other islands to be bottled here.
During my travels, I also encountered several illegal local stills. On some islands, I heard stories of stills that no longer existed; on others, I read about them in the daily newspaper. You probably won't see these stills on a casual island your, but in the small rural rum shops, if you ask - as an interested rum drinker - you may find mountain dew, forest reserve, hogo, babash, tomato, or local rum. These spirits are fresh, white rum, sometimes spiced, and as you might imagine, quite strong.
In the mood to party? Plan on being in Grenada for Carnival. The second weekend in August sees St. George's come alive with color, bands, lots of loud music, and of course, plenty of rum. Rest up for this one. The party continues all night and doesn't slow down until Tuesday afternoon. St. George's is one of the most picturesque Caribbean cities and, during Carnival, it really outdoes itself.
There is a lot to do in Grenada. Public buses to every part of the island lea
ve from St. George's near the market or from the waterfront. Even if you are only in Grenada for a few hours you won't be bored just walking the streets in the capital. The museum on Young Street is a good place to begin to discover the rich heritage of Grenada.
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Clarke's Court
The largest of the distilleries in Grenada, Clarke's Court is part of the Grenada Sugar Factory Ltd. and has the government as its principal shareholder. Built in 1937 in the southeastern part of the island, the Woodlands factory produces sugar, fancy molasses, rum, and methylated spirits.
Five hundred local farmers grow and harvest the cane processed at the factory. Since the sugar refinery and distillery are integrated, they can make the most efficient use of the cane that cost EC $120 per ton in 1995. Depending on the production schedule of fresh cane juice, concentrated cane syrup, and molasses are fermented to make rum. During the cane-cutting season, from February to June, fresh cane juice is used as it is available. In the fall, cane syrup is used since it can be stored longer than the fresh juice, which is unavailable in the fall.
The time required for fermentation varies according to the ingredients used in the wash - eight days for fresh cane juice to only three or four days for concentrated cane syrup. After fermentation, the wine, or dunder, is distilled in a two-column continuous still. About 100,000 imperial gallens at 95% alchohol are produced annually. Distilling the rum to such a high purity helps reduce the variations in the final product normally associated with fermenting different raw materials.
The bagasse from the crushing operation is the primary energy source for the sugar-processing operation. But fuel oil is used in the boiler to make steam for the distillation process.
Distillery personnel are working hard to reclaim the solids from the leeze, or spent wash, collected from the distillation column after the alcohol has been distilled. By filtering the leeze and collecting the filt
er cake, usuable products for paper production can be made. Utilizing these by products as raw materials for other manufacturing processes reduces the amount of polution generated, and produces additional revenue for the distillery.
The principal product of this distillery is Clarke's Court Pure White Rum, 69% alcohol by volume (138 proof). This rum is clearly the best-selling rum in Grenada and is drunk straight or with a dash of Angostura bitters, which gives the drink a pleasing color. Water, or some other chaser, is usually drunk on the side.
After watching several men and women enjoying themselve at lunch, I joined them for a drink and was pleasantly surprised. A splash of bitters really adds a lot to a shot of over proof rum. But make sure you have a glass of water in your other hand to chase this one. It's hard to ask for water when you can't catch your breath! If nothing else, you will amuse all who are eagerly watching your reaction to their favorite drink.
In 1997, Spicy Rum, also bottled to 69% alcohol by volume, was introduced. This blend of locally grown spices and strong rum captures the taste of Grenada.
If 138 proof is a little strong for your taste, Clarke's Court also bottles Kalypso White Rum at 67.5% alcohol by volume or 135 proof. This is blended with "different water" and a little less alcohol. But this is still over proof rum. Superior Light Rum, bottled at 43% alcohol by volume, is aged a minimum of six months in used barrels. Once aged, the rum is filtered to remove the color acquired from the oak barrels. Many people will not drink a rum that is not clear.
If you prefer a darker rum, Clarke's Court Special Dark Rum is also aged six months and then colored with caramel to give it a more pleasant, brown color.
The latest blend from Clarke's Court is Old Grog. This premium blend of rums up to ten years old is much smoother than the other rums bottled here. This is also the oldest blend of rums from Grenada.
All of these rums can be tasted at the new visitors c
enter and gift shop of the distillery in Woodlands.
All of the distilleries in Grenada use some of the same 750ml bottles. Paying EC 50 cents for recycled bottles contributes to a lower cost and helps ensure their supply. You won't see a lot of bottles on the roads in Grenada.
Relaxing and researching on Grand Anse Beach, just south of St. George's, I was introduced to Grenadian Shandy. A shot or so of Clarke's Court, as this strong rum is known locally, is poured into a bottle of Carib beer. It's difficult to mix this Shandy in the beer bottle, but the vendors don't worry about such details. After tipping the bottle to take a sip or two, it seemed to be well mixed. A shot of rum also makes these small beers go a lot further on the beach on a hot afternoon.
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